A deck-mount faucet is significantly different from a wall-mount one, even though they both distribute water in the same manner once installed. A wall-mount faucet necessitates the installation of water supply lines behind the wall, which in turn requires more meticulous design and measuring. You should think carefully about doing this yourself unless you have above-average plumbing and DIY abilities and are certain you can build leak-free connections that will be sealed behind a wall covering.
But if you are familiar with rough-in plumbing, you should be able to install a wall faucet with relative ease; otherwise, you may begin by removing the wall or backsplash, gathering your materials, and taking measurements. This position may need you to do things like
- Put new cutoff valves in
- Rearranging the arrangement
- Joining pipes with solder
If your backsplash or wall is made of tile, stone, or another difficult-to-remove material, and your faucet is of a specific type, you may find it easier to enter an adjacent room and install the plumbing from that side.
Design Factors
Fixing the faucet’s height relative to the sink is critical. Too much height causes water to splash, while too little means you won’t have space to work. The code specifies a one-inch minimum and no maximum distance between the sink’s spout and its flood rim. The perfect height for a bathroom faucet, according to Moen, is 3 inches, but because kitchen sinks are deeper than bathroom sinks, you’ll need to raise your kitchen faucet to provide enough clearance for big pots and pans to fit beneath.
Make sure the spout length of the wall-mounted bathroom faucet you pick is long enough to clear the back of the sink before you install it. You could run into issues with a short spout, particularly when paired with a wall-mount or vessel sink since most kitchen faucets have a long spout and bathroom faucets do not.
How to Install a Wall-Mount Faucet
Step 1: Review the Faucet’s Installation Instructions
Take a look at the faucet’s included installation instructions. Following these instructions in the letter is essential since they include details about your faucet model. When setting up an in-wall valve with detachable faucet handles and a spout, adhere to all blocking criteria, including the setup.
Step 2: Position the Faucet and Install Blocking
Find out where the middle of the faucet should be and relocate any studs blocking it. Some faucets, such as bridge-style ones, can span across studs, so this is only sometimes necessary. However, studs will be an issue if the valve is concealed in the wall.
Set up the blocking, which consists of two pieces of two-by-four timber placed between two studs, with the broad edge of the lumber facing out. Drive 2 1/2-inch wood screws into the studs to secure the blocking.
Step 3: Prepare the Water Supply Pipes
Ensure the water supply pipes are 1/2 inch in diameter. Copper pipes are the standard, although PEX is more straightforward and won’t burst if the pipes freeze in the wall. The hot and cold water shutdown valves should be installed.
Using the existing water lines and shut valves should be possible when switching out a sink-mount faucet with a wall-mount one. Discover a spot in the room or the one next to it where you can conceal the shutdown valves behind a detachable panel if the faucet is fresh new and you can’t locate a cabinet to store them in. They could also be in the basement or crawl space, depending on the location of the pipes.
Step 4: Terminate the Pipes
Your kind of pipes and faucet will determine the termination. Solder a copper or brass elbow on each pipe with a 1/2-inch IPS threaded inlet facing out. Then, use 1 1/4-inch screws to fasten the fitting into the blocking. This is how a basic double-handle bridge-style faucet is installed onto copper pipes. Use a suitable PEX fitting instead if you’re utilizing PEX pipes.
To install a concealed valve faucet, follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, making sure to solder copper pipes to the valve or use the right PEX fittings as directed. Before you tighten the screws that secure the valve to the blockage, make sure it is level.
Step 5: Install Faucet Nipples or Stub-Outs
You may use a 1/2-inch brass nipple screwed into each of the elbows you made to make a faucet without an in-wall valve. Verify that the nipples extend beyond the wall for the specified distance as advised by the manufacturer. Duct tape the nipple apertures to seal them and prevent dust and debris from getting in when reinstalling the wall covering.
Installing nipples is unnecessary when installing a faucet with an in-wall valve since the stub-outs will extend through the wall covering. Covers should be placed over the stub-outs to prevent debris from entering during installation.
Step 6: Finish the Wall and Install the Faucet
Complete all of the wall’s finishing touches, such as drywall, painting or tiling, grout sealing, and any other required details. Follow the manufacturer’s directions to the letter when installing the faucet or its trim. Tighten the compression nuts that come with your utility faucet, whether made of stainless steel, solid brass, or another material, using the locking pliers that come with them. For faucets with concealed valves, the standard procedure is to use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to fasten the trim pieces onto the valve stub-outs and then tighten a set screw.
Maintenance and Troubleshooting Tips for Wall-Mount Faucet
After you’ve installed your wall-mount faucet, the next step is to keep it in good repair and be ready to fix any problems. To maintain the pristine state of your new fixture, please follow these guidelines:
Regular Cleaning
Regular cleaning with a gentle soap and water solution will keep the faucet looking good and will stop dirt and mineral deposits from accumulating. Avoid pads and cleaners with abrasive chemicals; they could ruin the finish.
Inspect for Leaks
Inspect the faucet’s connections and the area around it for leaks regularly. To save your walls and any nearby buildings from water damage, you should fix any leaking or pooling water as soon as you see it.
Secure Loose Connections
Connections might become loose due to vibrations and regular use. Use an adjustable wrench to secure any loose nuts, bolts, or connections to the supply lines that you find.
Check Water Pressure and Aerator
If the water pressure is low, look for clogs in the aerator or faucet. A decrease in water flow may occur when mineral deposits build up. To clean or replace the aerator, remove it and give it a good scrub. Learn more about what a faucet aerator is, how it works, and why you need one.
Adjust Water Temperature and Flow Rate
There are wall-mounted faucets that allow you to adjust the water temperature and flow rate. To customize the temperature and water flow to your liking, refer to the manufacturer’s instructions if you’re not happy with the default settings.
Replace Damaged Seals and Gaskets
Look for leaks or other indications of damage to the faucet’s seals and gaskets. If you see any damage, replace the seals right away so there are no leaks and everything works as it should.
Address Water Hammer
The presence of air in the pipes, also known as a water hammer, may cause the faucet to make strange noises like slamming or vibrating when turned on. Run the water faucet for a few minutes to release any trapped air, and if it doesn’t work, you may want to look into getting water hammer arrestors.
Consult a Professional
Feel free to see an expert if you run into ongoing problems or are stuck trying to figure out a solution. If you want your wall-mount faucet to last and work well, it’s best to have a professional plumber take a look at it.
Conclusion
If you want to give your kitchen a facelift without breaking the bank, try installing a wall-mount faucet. If you follow these directions carefully and make sure the connections are correct, you may have a beautiful and practical wall-mount faucet in your house. Ensure a smooth installation by consulting the manufacturer’s specifications and, if necessary, seeking expert help.